The best Surf Books
10 Books you can't miss!
As surf enthusiasts, we often find ourselves daydreaming about our favourite hobby, and what better way to complement these daydreams than diving into a nice book about surfing? Many surf books feature captivating stories with photographs and illustrations that bring the surfing experience to life, offering you a chance to visualise the action and get a deeper understanding of the art of surfing!
Perfect for your plane journey to Bali or Sri Lanka, or to enjoy after catching waves at Kima. Whether you're seeking inspiration, adventure, or a deeper connection to the surfing world, these 10 surf books are definitely books you don’t want to miss out on! Ready to catch the best waves without getting wet?
Do you feel that we missed an essential surf book? Let us know. Happy reading!
1. Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life by William Finnegan
Let's start with the must-read memoir of a lifetime – "Barbarian Days" by William Finnegan. This Pulitzer Prize-winning book takes you on an unforgettable journey through the waves, offering brief, sharp glimpses of eternity on Finnegan's surfboard. The book captures not only the physicality of surfing but also its emotional and existential dimensions. The story is a road trip through his life as a surfer, from when he began surfing the Californian waves in the early days, to the cold Manhattan waves where he is surfing now.
This book shows that surfing is more than just a sport, it’s also a profound path of self-discovery.
2. Surf Is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
"Surf Is Where You Find It: The Wisdom of Waves, Any Time, Anywhere, Anyway" is a book written by the legendary Hawaiian surfer and surf Master Gerry Lopez. This collection of 38 essays and stories reflects on a life spent as a surfer chasing the waves around the world, offering insights into the soulful connection between surfer and sea. From growing up in Hawaii in the '50s and '60s, to finding the tube in the early days at Pipeline, to pioneering legendary spots like Uluwatu and G-Land in Indonesia, Lopez has travelled the world to surf.
Originally published in 2008, this surfing classic has been relaunched by Patagonia, a fully redesigned edition with new photos that will give you extra feeling to the story.
“Surfing anytime, anywhere, and in any way!”
3. The Wave by Susan Casey
Men’s Journal named “The Wave” as one of the ’50 Greatest Adventure Books of All Time’. It’s the story of journalist Susan Casey (the former editor of Oprah’s in-house magazine), and her worldwide trip with legendary big wave rider, Laird Hamilton.
This book is a page-turner that's all about the bigger, badder waves that were once mere legends. Casey dives into the tales of mariners, wave scientists who didn't believe that surfers could ride these big waves, and daredevil surfers chasing the ultimate thrill. The pioneer of extreme surfing is the legendary Laird Hamilton, who, with a group of friends in Hawaii, figured out how to board suicidally large waves of 70 and 80 feet. Casey follows these surfers as they seek to conquer the holy grail of their sport, a 100-foot wave. An interesting and thrilling story with graphic visuals.
4. Da Bull: Life Over the Edge by Greg Noll
Here's another tale of a big-wave surfer, and this time it revolves around the legendary Greg Noll, fondly nicknamed 'Da Bull'. He was fearless, had a no-nonsense approach to surfing and life itself. From revolutionising surfing in Australia to mastering the monstrous waves of Waimea Bay and Outside Pipeline, his journey is a thrilling saga of audacity and unmatched expertise.
Dive into this maverick surfer's quest for the biggest wave, even conquering the death-defying waves at Makaha Point in 1969. Join the adventure and discover why Greg Noll remains one of the boldest and best big-wave riders in surfing history!
5. In Search of Captain Zero: A Surfer's Road Trip Beyond the End of the Road by Allan Weisbecker
Allan Weisbecker takes you on an incredible journey that challenges the boundaries between reality and fiction. This memoir is not a work of fiction but a recollection of his escapades involving drug smuggling, Mexican misadventures, and a heartfelt quest to find his old buddy, 'Captain Zero.' His mission? To locate his long-lost surfer friend, Christopher Conner, fearing he may have 'gone off the rails.' He sold all his worthy possessions, packed up his camper with gear and surfboards, and embarked on a two-year search that took him from New York all the way to the border of Panama.
This true story captures the essence of surfers living exotic lifestyles, a narrative filled with hope, challenges, and the inevitable end of extraordinary stories. Read this book and explore the unique bond between true surfers and the unpredictable twists of their nomadic lives.
6. The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
Ready to surf through time? Matt Warshaw's "The History of Surfing" is your front-row seat to the evolution of surfing. As a former professional surfer and editor of Surfing magazine, Warshaw brings an unmatched passion to this authoritative and visually crafted guide. Five years of dedicated research come alive through anecdotes, more than 250 rare and cool photographs, and a humorous storytelling style that makes the journey through surfing's milestones and cultural shifts delightful and easy to read. This book is a tribute to the daring spirit, innovation, and unique characters that helped develop surfing history, making it an essential read for all those addicted to surfing!
7. Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard
Ever wondered about the connection between business and waves? Yvon Chouinard educates you on this in "Let My People Go Surfing: The Education of a Reluctant Businessman." Follow the founder of Patagonia on a journey where he shares his journey in a way that feels more like chatting with a friend than reading a business book.
Get ready for an adventure that's not just about building a successful business but doing it in a way that respects the environment, people and, of course, the love of catching some epic waves. From kickstarting his business in the late 1960s to creating an iconic and socially responsible brand, the story is a ride through business and the surf culture.
8. Women Making Waves: Trailblazing Surfers In and Out of the Water by Lara Einzig
Women Making Waves is a celebration of the sisterhood of surfing. It celebrates the fearless and inspirational women who have left an indelible mark on the world of surfing. This empowering book dives into the stories of various female surfers who have not only conquered the waves but have also shattered stereotypes and paved the way for future generations. Through captivating interviews and stunning visuals, the book shows the achievements, struggles, and triumphs of these surf icons. They learned from the ocean, from pushing themselves, trusting themselves, and dancing with the elements.
From overcoming gender barriers to redefining the sport, these women have become the driving forces for change. This is not a typical surf book; it's a testament to the resilience, strength, and passion of women who have made a significant impact both in and out of the water. Surf's up!
9. Soul Surfer: A True Story of Faith, Family, and Fighting to Get Back on the Board by Bethany Hamilton
Bethany Hamilton's Soul Surfer is a compelling true story of resilience. At just 13, she faced a shark’s stealth attack in Kauai, Hawaii, responding with unwavering determination. Pushing through pain, she paddled with one arm, focusing on reaching the beach. After surgery, her first question was, "When can I surf again?" This tale of courage and faith became a global inspiration and especially marks a milestone in the growth in women’s surfing. Still riding waves worldwide, including Bali's beautiful shores, Bethany, who wrote this impactful memoir at 14, embodies the spirit of overcoming challenges with determination and faith. Soul Surfer is a short yet powerful read!
10. Surf Survival: The Surfer's Health Handbook by Andrew Nathanson, Clayton Everline and Mark Renneker
From the history and surf legends of surfing to a more practical book. This book is your ultimate practical guide to keeping fit, staying healthy, and riding the waves like a pro! Written by experts who understand the unique needs of surfers, it's not your typical health manual – it's your go-to book for a vibrant and wave-ready lifestyle.
Packed with practical tips, workout routines, and insights on nutrition specifically made for surfers, this handbook is all about ensuring you're not just catching the best waves during your surf but also taking care of your body and mind. From pre-surf warm-ups to post-session recovery and stretches. Time to paddle out with confidence and strength!
